This weekend I needed a place to structure the many thoughts in my head. So I decided to head over to one of my favourite places in the city. The Sanjay Gandhi National Park – the sanctuary in my backyard. I was visiting exactly a year after. Growing up, this was our regular haunt and we would come in here to bathe in the streams or walk around and I would have imaginary conversations with the tigers and leopards in their enclosures. We would love to ride on the Van Rani – the train that ran through the park. So it seemed like a perfect destination for the morning.
I got my entry ticket (Rs. 94), and on a whim next, I decided to rent a cycle. The cycle project is a fantastic initiative of the national park which meets a growing need of cycling enthusiasts for new spaces. The internal roads are perfect for a good 12 km circuit from the main gate upto the base of Kanheri caves. I got my seat adjusted at the godown, deposited some cash (Rs. 300) and an ID (this is compulsory) and I was off into the heart of the forest.
The moment I stepped on the pedal and had covered a few metres, I realised how much I missed cycling. The last time I had cycled through an empty tree lined road was back in 2019 in Igatpuri. It had been a wonderful time then.
Encouraged by the wind on my face I pedalled harder while the terrain remained flat. I chose to turn left at the fork and took the road via the Safari gate towards Kanheri. I particularly love this route because it passes through the small padas (settlements of adivasis) and has some good slopes.
October heat seemed to be in remission and the natural tree covered provided a good shaded route until the very end. I made a few stops at some clearings to check out the birds but there was hardly any activity that morning. I did see the common kingfisher and the white breasted kingfisher which was a delight. I wanted to see them more in action but I was chased away by a rhesus monkey who wanted me to feed her.
So I continued to cycle through the silence. I also spotted a few deer nibbling on the garbage along with the crows and hens of the pada, apparently they had taken a liking for the food thrown away by humans. Just past the Shilonda Trail – I saw my favourite bird. The black drongo – which is commonly seen during the winter months in these parts. Identified easily by its characteristic forked tail, it was flitting across its territory, evidently protecting it, true to its local name – chowkidaar or kotwal pakshi. After watching it for a while I decided to move on and joined the Kanheri Road. I passed by the fruit stalls and decided to return to them on my way back.
The road was narrower and oftentimes I had to get off the main tarmac to allow the big AC and BEST buses to pass. These buses ply from the main gate right up the slopes of Kanheri. I passed small groups of cyclists and other boisterous groups playing loud music as they walked. I was in no mood for any confrontation so I continued to pedal down. Certain inclines were difficult for me so I had to get off and walk alongside, but that was good too as I got a chance to investigate the sounds of the forest more clearly. The periodic rustling sounds for instance were caused by monkeys which jumped from branch to branch.
I reached the base of Kanheri and bought cucumber from an old lady. She told me that there weren’t many tourists but she was hopeful. She sat under the sun and showed me her umbrella which would help her in case the sun got too hot. I thanked her and found a spot to sit down and read my book. I was carrying Same as Ever by Morgan Housel – a good read. After a few chapters I decided to go back but I wanted to spend time by the river too. I made a detour on an offbeat track and found a small dam. This used to be our spot where my father and I would come to bathe, with hamam soap and everything. It was our ritual to visit the river post the monsoons. I found a quiet corner, took off my shoes and sat down with my feet in the water. Normally these areas are now restricted and a forest guard may fine you for being there. But I didn’t care much. In the distance I saw a checkered keelback – a non venomous snake making its way through.
It didn’t come my way. I was at peace by the river. I dried my feet and then cycled back to the riverfront, where I read for a while again. Across the river bank young monkeys were playing a game of jump. They would climb up onto a branch high up and then find a spot and jump in the cool water of the Dahisar river, and then swim back to the shore, only to repeat the entire cycle. I sat there watching them until two adult monkeys came and tried to open my backpack, looking for food.
I picked up some more fruits and treated myself to a lime juice too. The lady selling the fruits told me how this low footfall would result in major losses as they had no way of storing the produce that they bought from the market. They couldn’t grow everything inside the park either because the monkeys destroyed the yield, so they had to rely on the local market. Life was tough for them.
I sat for a few moments on the steps overlooking the river, thinking of the many things on my mind. But mostly I was thankful for the time that I had got for myself. I had spent about four hours in absolute silence, amidst the green cover hearing the sounds of the forest. My mind was clearer than before and my lungs were thankful. I promised myself to return soon and not wait another year to visit again.
Guide:
- Sanjay Gandhi National Park opens at 08:00 am, tickets cost Rs. 94
- Cycle Rentals are Rs. 80 for 2 hours and Rs. 40 for every subsequent hour
- Buses to Kanheri ply from the Gate – ticket to be purchased directly on the bus
- Carry water bottles with you
- Most fruit stalls vendors accept UPI but keep some change handy
- Best time to visit: All year round but avoid cycling in the Summers
- Remember the park remains closed on Mondays