Bangalore’s location makes it easy to plan impromptu trips to exotic places. So this Dasara week, we decided to troop over to Kannur. A small but a town with much character. A relatively lesser known place, it is a town with a rich history, largely concealed in its few layers and natural beauty comfortable in its own existence.
We managed to land up here from Bangalore in less than 8 hours. The weather was cool with a hint of humidity and for a Bombay person like me, this was perfect. We stayed at the cosy Kannur West Beach homestay run by the very affable Deepa and her staff member – Ali Chettan. Located at a distance of about 10 km from main town in a small village called Thottada. The auto driver agreed to ply by the meter at 530 AM but requested me to cover his return fare too. Our homestay faced the backwaters of Thottada river which eventually forms a scenic estuary to the west. I was immediately greeted by the family of Greater flameback woodpeckers in the coconut grove of the property.
From Thottada, we decided on an excursion to the north to Mahe, which comes under the jursidiction of Government of Pondicherry. A walk by the Mahe river on the beautifully done walkaway and the viewing point were the highlights of this quick drive through. Cheap alcohol is available here but beware of the small excise check post at the entry. Moving southwards we stopped for the famous Thalasserry (pronounced – Tha-la-sherry) Biryani at Rara Avis. Flavourful, succulent large chunks of chicken served with fragrant rice in a plate. The nearby Thalasherry fort and Wellesley’s bungalows are good attractions for colonial history buffs. In fact the Kerala tourism website lists down the various heritage sites under the Thalasserry Heritage Project.
Post lunch we also made a quick stop at Dhamadaram beach and island. The island can be accessed on foot but only during low tide. A boating facility to the island would have been nice. From here we headed to the world famous Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach
Our most kind auto driver – Unny was a pro and he took us on a joy ride on the beach. This was a unique experience. I recommend it but only during off hours such as mornings or afternoons. A traffic jam on the beach is seen every evening. Best avoided.
In Kannur main town – the highlights are the historical sights and fish places. Angelo Fort is a well built Portuguese fort facing the Mapilla bay. Walking on its ramparts will remind you of similar forts on the western coast – Bassein, Aguada and even our good old Bandra fort. The view from the fort from the northernmost bastion is breathtaking. If I was a Kannur resident, I would spend many moments of solitude on these ramparts overlooking the Arabian Sea.
For a good fish meal the locals swear by Ondhen’s. An unassuming no nonsense eatery dishing out fresh Kerala meals on plantain leafs with a variety of fish on the side. We had Mackerel, Surmai, Pompfret, Squid, Mussels, Prawns and fish eggs – all shallow fried in their unique masala paste. And we ended up paying only about 1000 rupees for the sumptuous meal for three. Go early to grab a seat. If you ask nicely they will let you take a peek into their bustling kitchen too. But if you end up staying at Kannur West Beach then Deepa and Ali will ensure we are served tasty meals every time as well.
Kannur Lighthouse is yet another fun attraction in the city. Escape the sultry weather in the elegantly curated Lighthouse museum and then climb right up to the top of the lighthouse. The views are magnificent. Watch the Brahmins Kites fly around and try and spot the horizon for the sea stretches as far as the eyes can see.
But most of all, my favourite part of the visit was the time spent at Thottada beach. A simple clean beach with a gradual decline into the ocean, with palm trees swaying at the edges. Very few locals and hardly any tourists were around and we could spend a long time uninterrupted by the sea. Soak in the sun and the sound of the waves, forget that a world outside of here exists and enjoy the peace that is Thottada.
The point of travel is to meet other souls and listen to their stories. At the homestay, we also met a serious travelling couple – Mr. Debi Prasad Ray and his wife, the travel writer – Ms. Bandana Ray. Both were retired bankers but they were also avid travellers. Making Kannur as their base, they managed to take the train all the way to Bekal Fort and returned the same day. They continuously travel, sticking to the most economical ways and end up with a bagful of tales. At every meal they would enthrall us with their adventures across India. They told us how they referred to maps, survey sheets, travelogues and made plans to visit the length and breadth of India.
Deepa, who ran the homestay shared how she had become an entrepreneur by also taking over the operations of Ayisha Manzil – a heritage property in Thalaserry. Her journey from Singapore back to her roots in Kerala and then foray into entrepreneurship was very inspiring. It took me back to my Breakfree days. And of course, getting to know your co-travellers a level deeper. There is always something to learn from each one you cross your paths with.
The beauty of Kannur lies in its simplicity. It remains comfortable in its existence. It remains a place waiting to be discovered but is very happy to remain off the tourist map. The city is quite clean and well maintained. The people are friendly and the autos run by meter. You can of course hire an auto for your entire trip with an agreed rate.
The days passed too quickly and it was time for us to return. We missed visiting a few places, did not catch the Theyyam performances which begin in November at various temples. But I was happy to carry a bagful of treats – mixture, halwa, chips from Browny’s Bakery. A quick meal at Hotel Meridian Palace later, our bus took us back to Bangalore where I arrived to resume my struggle with auto driver and Uber.
Planning your trip:
Best time to visit: Post Monsoon until April
Stay: We stayed at Kannur West Beach Homestay – https://kannurwestbeachhouse.com
Eat: Ondhen’s, Krithika, Raandhal, Pulari
Getting Around: Auto, Unni – 09947277802
Additional Reading: The Cannore of Yore