One evening in November I decided to take the train to Bhayander to visit Uttan. It had been on my list for a long time and I had found some time. Uttan is a small fishing village located to the north of the city, on an island called Dharavi. The fort of Dharavi holds special importance as it is closest to the Vasai fort. Only separated by a narrow channel, it was a strategic outpost during the Maratha attack on the Portuguese bastion of Bassein. While the fort seemed interesting and welcoming, I decided to visit the famous sea-side church of Uttan – the shrine of Mata Velankani located at Bhatte Bandar.
From Bhayander station, west I could get a bus but I took a share auto upto Uttan Naka (Rs. 50). The ride was a pleasant once we left the familiar urban trappings and entered the small villages. Small fields, mangroves and rolling hillocks accompanied us as we made our way to the coast. At Uttan naka, I changed into another share auto which was going to take me up the cliff along the coast all the way to the church (Rs. 10).
The approach was narrow and we got stuck in traffic. A tempo carrying dried fish was blocking the way. So I got off and set out on foot. The sea kept me company on the right. The entire route was dotted by brightly painted houses – fishermen or the kolis who have been living here since centuries were lounging about. Many of them wore their traditional koli lungi around their waist. I recalled me dressing up as a member of the koli community for a dance performance in school, complete with a fake kajal moustache. I also passed the Uttan lighthouse but it was not open for visitors at that hour.
The sun was about to set, so I took a detour and hit the coast. The smell of dried fish hit me first, the signature scent of the western coast. The young were playing cricket on the sand. I stood there watching their silhouettes against the setting sun. The undulating rocks led me to the main landing point where the small boats docked. From there, the church of Velankani was visible. But the most striking was the statue of Mother Mary, towering about 100 feet above the ground.
I was almost breathless by the time I climbed up to the statue. The devout and the tourists both, had trekked up the steps. There were construction workers and daily wage labourers just enjoying their time off. Leisure time is precious when you have worked all day. The devout were praying with their hands folded to Mother Mary. The statue depicts Mother Mary as she appeared in Velankani, holding infant Jesus in one hand and a rosary in the other (which was missing). The miracles of Mother Velankani are well known and celebrated in the small town located in Nagapattinam and she is worshiped across India, particularly along the coast. She is known to have appeared in front of a shepherd and asked him for milk for her baby, has cured a differently abled person and rescued a ship full of drowning Portuguese sailors off the coast of Coromandel. That is why she is also known as the Our Lady of Health. This is depicted in a fresco in a small chapel right off the coast at Uttan.
The view from the top was spectacular. Straight ahead, you could see the Arabian Sea stretching out in all its glory. To the north, you could see the beach of Gorai and to the east – some parts of the city. Towards the north lied the other beaches of Uttan and the land’s end, which is occupied by the Dharavi fort.
I stood there for a long time watching the sunset and enjoyed the gentle sea breeze. When I climbed down, the evening mass at the Church of Mother Velankani was over. I still walked about the church premises and right upto the altar. It was a calm evening and the koli families nearby were gathering the dried fish laid out onto the concrete slabs adjoining the coast. It was tempting to buy some of the dried fish especially the shrimp and the mackerel, and of course, my favourite – dried bombil or Bombay duck. But I resisted and started my return journey.
Uttan is home to a sizeable East Indian population and there are some eateries to try out local delicacies. I am also told that some pop-ups and heritage walks are conducted regularly. But I was on a whimsical exploration and I was only keen on experiencing the place, on my own, without much research. Now having done that, I may return for a more organised exploration. And this time I will visit the fort for sure and savour the yummy East Indian delicacies.