“Aage kuch nahi hain,” said a young man from his verandah.
“Woh Cavel kidhar padega ?”
“Nahi maalum, aage jao.”
“Arrey, but aage toh kuch nahi hain na.”
“Haan toh peeche jao.”
“Sigh.”
Google Maps had taken me into a cul-de-sac with no one to ask for directions. I was in the bylanes of Kalbadevi looking for a neighbourhood which I had read about in the Goan Pioneers in Bombay by Teresa Albuquerque. Occasionally, local newspapers write about it and a recent novel that I read was also set in this neighbourhood — Bombay Balchao by Jane Borges. To get here I had crossed Sonapur and Dhobi Talao, and found myself on Kalbadevi Road. Though I was ashamed to admit that I was somewhat lost, I continued my exploration and took the young man’s advice and decided to backtrack my footsteps.
Over the last few years I have tried to understand the connection of Bombay with the Goan identity a bit deeper. My grandparents came from Goa and settled here in the 50s. But I always took that part of my identity for granted. Though I have improved my spoken Konkani by a huge margin, a strange accent comes over me and gives me away, especially when in Goa!
So that weekend I had made it my mission to explore Cavel and its neighbourhood and try and understand a bit of what life would have been like here, which though derived from Kolvar – the habitats of the Kolis, was (and is) an important landmark for the Bomboicars – the Goans in Bombay. In fact Gerson Da Cunha in his classic Origin of Bombay notes that Cavel was the “centre of the largest Roman Catholic community in the island, to which immigrants from Bassein (Vasai), Salsette (Mumbai Suburbs), Damuan (Daman) and Goa made continual yearly additions”
At a nondescript left turn of Viegas Street, I saw the first hint of the old christian neighbourhood – the Our Lady of Health Church. Built on an estate belonging to one Pedro Jose De Moura, as Nossa Senhora de Saude, it has been rebuilt but continues to stand on the same site since 1792. Of course, Viegas Street itself is named after the famous Dr. Acacio Gabriel Viegas – a physician from Goa who practiced in Mandvi and stayed in Cavel briefly. His statue stands at the Dhobi Talao signal, right opposite Jer Mahal – the home to many kudds – the village owned hostels for Goan migrants in the city.
Cavel, unlike many other neighbourhoods, remains hidden. You need to look for signs of Cavel. Maybe peek into the gullies and stand on your toes to peer into the compounds to catch a glimpse of the world that has gone by and yet somehow still remains the same. As Google maps had failed and pointed me to some other street, I had to follow my instinct. So I did and went round the church and turned right.
And before I knew it, I came across a shop – the signage said: Cavel Medical – Cavel Street. I was in. Right next to the medical store was the compound wall of Bishop’s Town. Was it the inspiration for Pope’s Town – an enclave mentioned in Bombay Balchao? Peering in I could see the sturdy wooden frames of this enclave. I didn’t venture further in but I assume that this would be a lovely corner to visit during Christmas.
Further down the street was the Daddiset Agiary – a beautiful building, of course restricted for non Parsis. Many shops sold papers of all kinds there. But my interest was Cavel, so I took a u-turn and came back in search of the rest of Cavel. As I traced my steps back – I ran into two imposing buildings. The A.M.D.G building built in 1912, translated from Latin means for the greater glory of God. And the next door – Baretto School building. The type on the font was reminiscent of the deco font, even though the architecture was not art deco. The font definitely stood out for me. Albuquerque in her book has written about the school. It started in 1778 by a Catholic merchant who had his business in Calcutta and it grew into an important institution over the years.
As I peered more closely, I noticed that behind the school was Pius X Mansion – the famed Bosco Mansion in the book by Borges. The sturdy structure was hidden behind the school building and I was not sure if I would be welcome into the compound. But I got a good view from the cross street next door. It was not hard to imagine the sense of community the residents of Cavel must have felt here.
Cavel is not a new neighbourhood. Da Cunha also notes a discovery of a few ancient coins in Cavel, making Cavel even older than it is. Turns out that the hoard was discovered while digging up a drain. The initial research suggested that the coins were issued by Krishnaraja of the Kalachuri dynasty. But later it was confirmed in the Coins of Southern Indian – Analysis, that the coins belonged to the Rashtrakuta dynasty. I wondered where the coins must be. They were exhibited at the Asiatic Society but after that I have not been able to trace them. ‘Maybe the Bhau Daji Lad Museum would be a good place to start’ I made a mental note.
Over many centuries migrants from various parts of India came and settled here and were employed as clerks, typists in the burgeoning commercial capital of India. Da Cunha also notes that while it remained a stronghold for Portuguese converted Kolis, the original inhabitants of the island city, it was also invaded by the Vanias who replaced the airy gardens with tenements devoid of light or air. Some of these structures were visible in the cross streets which run through Cavel. I wandered about and came across Gai Wadi, with a few cows and calves, a cross on the corner and a small shrine in one of the cross lanes.
It was time for me to head back to the station but instead of the usual route, I took a detour and walked to Dabul – another Christian neighbourhood nestled between Thakurdwar and Chira Bazaar. Was the neighbourhood named after the Dabhol port in Maharashtra which was destroyed by the Portuguese in the great Battle of Dabul?
I knew that I could visit the St. Francis Xavier’s Church en route but just before I entered the church lane, I stopped when I came across the Goan Institute Building. Now, I was intrigued. I climbed up the stairs and wandered in, expecting fully to be shoo-ed away. But I was to be proven wrong.
The officials there welcomed me and even told me a little bit about the institute’s membership and showed me around and even allowed me to take a few pictures. I enquired if they had any books on Goa and they showed me Soter-Sorg, a transliterated version of the book by Soter R. Baretto, I was happy to pick it up. They even had a space which could be rented for events and a good offering of various indoor sports. A few seniors were occupied in the game of carrom, a classic sight.
I got down and found myself in the church lane which also housed the St. Anne’s School. The church of St. Francis Xavier was right ahead and I could see its stone edifice. It was erected in the 1870s for the burgeoning Goan population in the area. A relic of the saint’s skin is venerated and kept here in this church. When I visited the church the main gates were shut except for the one near the altar. I quietly walked in only to hear the choir practicing.
Albuquerque in her book has written about the church. Referring to a brochure written by Martin Pinto, she states that two Goans – Rosario Micael Castelino and Jose Santa De Andraded donated their cottages in Dabul for the site of the church. In 1903, the first Goan congress was held in Dabul and was blessed by Dom Sebastio Jose Pereira who served as the Bishop of Daman. Another fascinating piece of history is of the bell that hangs in the belfry of the church. While some historians believe that it came from the churches of Bassein Fort, Braz Fernandes notes that it came from St. Anne’s church Bandra.
I heard the choir sing for a few minutes and decided to come back during mass some other time. Next to the church was the St. Sebastian Goan School, which was established in 1925. A small archway with the statue of Jesus on the cross marked the end of my walk. Two words were handpainted – Priti Aso, let love prevail. I walked out of the archway and towards Marine Lines, leaving an entirely different world hidden behind the lanes.
This post is a part of my ongoing series on exploratory walks across the city. Do leave your feedback, suggestions and ideas.