When the news of a loud explosion at Rameshwaram Cafe broke, all of us assumed that it must have been a cylinder blast. But as the story progressed and new details emerged – most of us were in shock, which was soon replaced by anger. Kundanhalli Gate is a quiet neighbourhood, filled with eateries, offices and residential complexes. This cafe had become quite popular for its ghee soaked idlis and skyrocketing daily revenue numbers. So a blast at this bustling cafe was concerning.
That’s why I am taking a break from B for Bombay to instead write a special column on B for Bengaluru – a city which I have called home and have always enjoyed living in. A few peak Bengaluru things and events and places in this post.
I first visited Bangalore in 2008 as part of an industrial visit trip organised by the college. I was impressed by the pleasant weather and the good food. I returned a few years later to appear for the Service Selection Board – SSB for the Indian Army. I didn’t qualify but the 5 day process was memorable. I returned 6 years later, and this time I stayed for good.
There are many things to like about Bengaluru. Here are some of my favourites – in no particular order.
People: The people of Bengaluru are very sweet. The locals are welcoming and if you even attempt to speak Kannada, they will teach you enthusiastically and welcome you into their world. I was fortunate to know so many warm local Bangaloreans who helped me to make this city a home.
Donne Biryani & Pulav: I love the local food here. The naati or the desi rustic food includes preparation which use green masala and whole spices. The food is very reminiscent of the stuff we get at home and thus, between an Italian joint and a military hotel, I veer off towards the latter. But among the kaima unde (meat balls) and naati Koli fry, the Donne Biryani is what stands out for me. Imagine succulent pieces of chicken or mutton cooked together with the jeerage samba rice (short grained) along with a generous mix of coriander, garlic-ginger and whole spices, over slow fire. No layering, no food colour – just a good wholesome dish of comfort. It is savoured at all times of the day, including for breakfast. My favourites include the military hotel including the Shivaji Military Home. A special tip of the hat to Meghana Biryani which I enjoy once in a while and which used to be a staple favourite during weekends at work.
BMTC: The BEST equivalent bus service. It connects many parts of the city including the airport with its KIA services. Buses 500 D, 335 E and KIA -7 were my usual favourites. They are cheap, they are frequent and they are fast. Once you figure out the routes, getting around can be very easy and convenient.
Coffee: Filter coffee at every corner – thumba strong, sugar beda (very strong, no sugar) is how I prefer it. This goes well with the masala dose and idli sambar. Though the coffee experience at some of the new age cafés including Third Wave Roasters, Blue Tokai and many standalone cafés is noteworthy.
Namma Yatri: The auto experience for me was not always fun. It meant a lot of bargaining and even encountering some rude folks. But all that changes when Namma Yatri was launched. It is one of the peak Bengaluru things. A tech startup leveraging an open source payments platform to create a democratic, commission free ride hailing platform. This has effectively reduced friction and enabled smooth transport. Though not as convenient as the meter system, it comes close and seems fitting in the tech-first environment of Bengaluru. The app has now expanded to multiple cities.
Darshinis: The concept of Darshini is simple. You place an order, collect the coupon, hand it over to a guy behind the counter, serve yourself and then eat your stuff at one of the standing tables and leave your plate wherever. It is the same concept modified and streamlined with an open kitchen and a fancy ordering interface at Rameshwaram. But the underlying idea rests on convenience and affordability. Every nook and corner of Bengaluru has two things – a popular darshini serving hot idlis and fresh dosa to everyone from the working class to the IT consultant and a bakery serving tea and egg puffs. Darshinis would work splendidly in Mumbai. In the evenings carts selling steaming plates of idlis, pulav and crispy vade pop up at busy corners and remain open till wee hours of the morning. These are really good idlis with a spicy chutney – perfect for the late nights in office.
Bookstores: Bengaluru loves books. There are many bookstores to choose from. From Blossoms – which has now blossomed into a big multi-storied enterprise, to Bookworm, Select and many more all within walking distance from each other on Church Street. There are of course other book places such as Old Books by Mr. Ganapathi at Indiranagar Metro station selling master pieces at throwaway rates, to the perpetually running book exhibition in Koramangala next to the playground opposite Kalyana Mantapa road. Sapna Book House branches sell everything from NCERT to cool stationery and best sellers – don’t expect discounts though. And then there are spaces like Champaca which offer an absolute escape with a great view.
Blooming Trees: The pink and yellow blooms across the city in the spring time makes for an amazing sight. The otherwise barren tech-parks come alive and the green breezy streets turn colourful. One may not always recognise the trees by their names but the pink flowers of the tabebuia roses are certainly a sight for the sore eyes.
Entrepreneurship and Big Tech: There is so much hope in the air. VC talk is common and there is always someone working on the next GTM or the next pitch. The POC is being readied for deployment and there is a PRD being built. There are classes to learn React and there are communities of coders who are redefining the way we interact with tech. There is just so much going on, it is fascinating.
Lakes and Green Spaces: Every neighbourhood has a lake. Some are in good shape while others are struggling. The hydrology map of Bengaluru shows how the lakes are interconnected with each other through an ingenious system but rampant construction and rapid urbanisation has severely impacted these connections. The urban studies and activist groups are strong in the city and a lot of avenues are available to participate in conservation and related dialogue. These lakes host many migratory birds and it is not uncommon to see many foreign winged visitors during the winter months.
Meals: I realise that most of the things I have enjoyed about the city are about food. And why not. This is the place where you get amazing budget meals from across the country. I loved my Kerala meals served on a banana leaf – a mini version of the Onam Sadhya with fresh fried fish. Numerous Andhra messes dish out lipsmacking pappu and rice, particularly awesome was gongura biryani served next to my old office. Of course, there’s Nagarjuna too. Then the highlight from North Karnataka – the Basaveshwara Khanavalis. These khanavalis are truly special because the food preparations matches what my mother makes – the brinjal curry, the holige or the puran poli and of course, the jowar roti made fresh. There are many outlets at varying price points and I have never eaten a bad meal at any of them. Not far behind are the many fish meal places from the enterprising folks of Udupi and Mangalore, serving delicious prawns ghee roast and neer dosas.
The weather of the city makes it very conducive for cognitively intensive work. Now of course, things are changing and the city is not what it used to be – as we have all heard about every other city in the country. But even then the city retains its charm and continues to attract many of us who continue to find solace in between the crosses and the mains. Though the traffic snarls, water shortage and increasing cost of living threaten the garden city, these are issues which we can solve together with concerted effort.
Here’s to never dampening the spirit of Namma Bengaluru. May it always remain Sakkath just like her people!